Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
